| 
Paint
off the rear |
Paint
removed |
Started the work
on the car. First off was the rear section of paint. I used a car
paint stripper solvent. It took a few goes because the paint was
on thick and there was quite a few layers on there. Once the paint
was scraped off. I just a grinder fitted with a carbon disc I will
list the disc in the tools section later as I get into the building
the web site. This wheel is great but does not last long. So be
careful not to hit any edges of the body. It cleans the last bits
of paint and filler off. So this will leave you |
| 
1PK
etch primer |
Chemical
paint stripper. |
with a nice clean metal body.
Once clean, I used a rust cure product to seal the body from the elements.
Before I got time to spray on a coat of 1 pack etch primer. This is
great stuff and it will allow you to work on the body for ages as
long as you keep it from the out side/rain. To remove the under seal
around the engine bay I used a hot air gun this was one of the best
things I bought for the restoration. I was going to just strip the
underside of the car of and keep the rough looking paint on the top
for some |
Stripped
ready for grinder |
Grinder
takes out the bits left |
fun. Mind you by then the underside
of the car would be spot less and fresh paint. This did not work out
as when I came up from under the car I noticed all the paint had bubbled
up so I started to clean the top off as well. So the pictures here
show the inner wheel arches and the rear of the body stripped clean
of all under seal and paint. Hard work but I think in the end it will
be worth it. |
| 
Bare
metal sealed with a mild acid |
Ok
who said this was fun
|
Tip I found was to heat the
under seal and not worry to much about any small bits left over.
Mainly because when you heat the under seal I found that it became
VERY brittle and a wire bush got the last bits off. I called a metal
paint remover guy here in the UK he has done and still does 356
bodies for a restoration guy here in the UK. He said " he heated
the car up and the under seal just starts to fall away. When cold
it goes brittle " so if he does it like this then it's just
as good. The long way. You with a hot air gun and a scraper. |
Bullet
holes in the door |
 |
If you have loads
of bondo/filler in the door then don't fret and grind it off the dust
and mess would be all over the place. I used the hot air gun and heated
up the filler and it came off real easy with a chisel. In the Door
here the filler was 1/4" thick it must have taken some one in
the body shop ages and ages to fill and mix all that filler................
The bullet holes make for an interesting story I wish I knew why there
are there. I have followed the holes and they have not entered into
the cab of the car. I think the door must have been open at the time. |
| 
Front
wing next |
Some
right old rubbish behind here |
The area next to tackle is the
rear of the front wing as this is the area of the concern with allot
of 356's. I started to heat up the panel and I dig in the chisel and
hey presto loads of rubbish hidden behind there. I will have to buy
new panels. I asked on the 356 talk site who made the best. Al Zim
makes the best fit panels for this job. Also as I don't want to make
too much work for myself. I am only going to remove the least amount
of metal as possible. This will help with the distortion of the metal
in the process of welding and the heat involved. Both wings were the
same each side so I decided to do both sides. |
| 
|
The Trolley makes it very easy |
Still lots to do to the body
work and the rest of the underside of the car. So far I think I
only need to replace the rear of the front wings and I have looked
at the floor and I might replace the bit under the drivers seat
only as I feel it is a bit weak. Well I have placed an order with
Al Zim for the panels I hope every one is right bout the fit and
they are easy to fit in.
I have now ordered these parts from Peter
Hoffman in Germany instead. |
